Wheel Speed. Is this what waft performance is all about? The grip threshold.
Real machines are becoming extra grip... Isn't flow about slide?
Is the above photo RWD or Counter-steer? It would not without a doubt count. The fact is, the car is doing what resembles RWD burnout and thats what we need isnt it? Well not genuinely.
If we do a BURNOUT at FULL THROTTLE we don't absolutely go everywhere.
The automobile just sits there spinning the wheels.
So what do you do?
1. You can placed on sticky/grippy tyres until the grip is sufficient to stop the wheels spinning and the grip actions the car ahead incredibly.
OR
2. You use much less throttle until the tyres are slow sufficient that they grip.
The point at which the tyre loses traction is referred to as the grip threshold.
You handiest want simply sufficient throttle / electricity / gearing to just smash traction to acquire glide / slide.
But at what car speed do you want to break traction. When the car is already travelling at low speed you have enough reserve power to break traction again. At full car speed, this ability is reduced. Just like you can't do a burnout on the highway in 5th gear. Car speed and wheel speed require balance.
Counter-steer cars suffer an imbalance between front and rear grip that really becomes evident as the surface grip increases. The ability to slide the front and rear at high speed is a massive RC issue. If the RC speed is low, then this imbalance doesn't really matter, but as the rolling speed of the front and rear increases, A high counter-steer car around 3.5:1 cannot create enough front wheel-speed to overcome grip and a spin will ALWAYS result. The crude solution is a high RPM engine to force the wheel-speed higher and higher.
This is why on high velocity tracks like Japan's Yatabe area, CS ratio is hardly ever greater than 1.Five:1. You need the car pace and the fast front wheel speed stability on a huge speedy circuit. You never want the the front wheels to generate a LOT of grip at excessive pace.
Off throttle with a one way bearing, the auto well-knownshows RWD charter anyway, so this can be left out.
Tight tracks like RC-Oahu, the rate is so low that even at complete throttle the car momentum will in no way attain the the front wheel velocity. So you may constantly wreck traction.
In a similar way, a high grip floor or tyre will demand a lower cs ratio because the wheel speed required to triumph over traction at a fast car speed is demanded.
Its type of like making use of the front brakes on the car after it reaches a positive velocity.
I have tried Counter Steer up to 5:0:1 and this relates to about 15% front to 85% rear drive. As the car speed increases past the rotation that the front wheels are turning then they will start to exhibit grip and make the car uncontrollable.
It's the reason I always ran a high RPM motor in a high CS car with the smallest pinion and largest spur possible. You can use the throttle to control the wheel speed but you need to practice. Painting a section of the front wheel in a visible colour will help you match the FRONT rolling speed.
So what about RWD?
Rear wheel force will ALWAYS have the proper rolling front wheel speed. So the front wheels will ALWAYS be at an appropriate velocity for the automobile. They aren't driven.
So the above discussion about the front to rear ratio can be omitted to an extent. But the quantity of the front grip at excessive speed is still in play.
RWD REAR
Remember the burnout. We do not want this unless we've a the front brake.
We need MAX accelleration without wheelspin until initation, then we need max accelleration / grip just enough wheelspin to permit the car to slide to our favored angle. Any greater REAR wheel pace will cause a spin.
Just like your real car. Keep you boot in on a moist street and you will spin. But control the throttle and also you do nonetheless move ahead and you could hold it out. But go to far and you are in trouble. Your hands at the steering wheel control the attitude inside may 2 degrees. The gyro takes care of the small corections.
You have NEVER seen a actual automobile cross from LOCK to LOCK in 0.Eight/s so don't allow your RC do it either.
Apply actual automobile drift techniques right here. Got an excessive amount of slide... Back off and get traction once more.
With 4wd countersteer, you want to add more throttle to braeak the the front traction additionally and assist pull you out of the slide. RWD doesn't have this GT-R style potential, so your most effective desire is ... Back down or spin out.
Paint the REAR wheel of you automobile to practice this method.
Matching the wheel speed to the gearing and motor selection is of course similar in all forms of RC however the RWD is specifically dependant in this putting.
High grip tracks call for large energy or speedy wheel speed to overcome the grip degrees. And meaning the instant they allow go... You can already be traveling too speedy to trap the slide.
Scale velocity go with the flow requires real global physics.
RWD FRONT
More front grip means that front wheels may never slide. If you are fast on the steering in the front then the reaction at the rear will be violent as the initiation will throw the rear around. So you need rear grip to hold it.
If you have a little slide built into the front, then the impact to the rear will be reduced also. Depending on your driving style and the grip level of the track you can tune your suspension to cope.
As my motors have developed the look for grip vs slip is a consistent war. How a good deal wheelspin do you want?
I've tried all forms of settings, however the attention with 4wd is on decreasing the front wheel velocity to a "rolling pace". If you can try this to fit the song velocity you're in business.
Rear Wheel Drive is a touch easier to discover the grip threshold. But it means you want to "power" the car extra to stability the grip to be had.
So I hope you could consider these thoughts and balance your chassis.
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