Is it time to retire the 86...? Over a 12 months of splendid tough running has taken it is toll. Not quite but.
I finished the build of this body in November 20 2013!!! That's almost 2 years of impacts and repairs.
As a D1 waft device you would assume this kind of Damage... So it's absolutely a pleasure to observe it degrade gracefully.
Be aware: DRIFTLINE - "DORI-SEN" is a brand new emblem on the way to be liberating a few new stuff in due route.
Underneath the 86 I've been strolling this chassis recently.
I attempted many variatinos of RWD rc waft however waited on very last commitment for multiple motives.
1. The first chassis conversions FR-D and FXX-D were designed around "reality" having the the front engine and rear pressure. I knew that this changed into now not the pleasant format for RC overall performance.
2. I wanted to see if the non-gyro RWD would take off as a viable option.... Not yet (depending on grip levels.)
3. The struggle for a putting on the way to fit the Full Counter Steer Chassis for driving feel.
4. A conversion chassis is actually too costly for everyone.
Five. GCRC's surface of insanely polished concrete provided a far greater hard setup that different tracks.
Anyway... I improved via the Imadoki roll chassis that labored quite nicely, But I had bought this used Drift Master as my base due to the fact...
1. The chassis was stiff and suitable for suspension tuning.
2. The open gearbox layout was much like the DRbs that I actually have.
Three. It become still a Drift Package... The maximum tune-in a position chassis in RC driftland.
It's all a mixture of parts like Active, Team Associated, Overdose, Wrap Up, Yokomo pieced collectively with old DRB parts and some custom portions (Upper deck and the front mount)
The slide rack is decent sufficient, But I see no reason why the brand new great long hands from Yokomo should not work equally as well with less complexity.
Rubber bands to prevent ninety degree steering.
In the rear is a ball diff, however the largest have an impact on on those RWD chassis has been three things.
1. Weight Balance
Moving the electronics rearward creates good side to side balance, the I tried the battery in over 6 different locations, I've settled on setting it laterally, just in front of the rear shock tower. Behind the shock tower gave too much rotation. With a more grippy surface this may be ok, but at GCRC we chase grip at big angle and not slip. We are always chasing rear grip. Some may do this with tyre... but it's ultimately the chassis that hold the key. With a grippy tyre comes less angle and I don't look for that. MST yellow is about the softest we should ever go to match CS car speed, but I am chasing a setting where I can revert to MST CS-R RED.
2. Front End Geometry
RWD requires best setting of the front stop guidance geometry. Just 1 diploma of toe inside the wrong guidance quarter can flip a super setting into a pig. I am still seeking to run with "deep dish" rims of round 9 offset for a street placing, however after that I will trade to 0 as is the norm in emulating Formula D and D1GP.
Three. Long stroke suspension.
The long stroke suspension has been something that came to light from adding weight. The rear of many chassis were ending up with super stiff springs and even then only around 1mm of rear suspension travel. This obviously incorrect setting had me searching for options to allow the chassis to run super soft rear that would twist and roll with weight up top while still allow for compression and dive. The result was a 10mm increase in rear travel. With out the battery, the chassis is about 10mm ride height. but compresses to around 5mm.
A notice on Power.
I run a regular force ratio in the rear so why could I want a 7.5T creating a exceptional insane unrealistic scale pace? I do not. So I most effective run a 21.5T motor. This placing prevents needless over-rotaion of the rear wheels and effects in more than sufficient grip according to surface. I always have the choice for greater power with a complete variety of Accuvance vehicles in my toolbox, however as but, I'm yet to see use for it.
So having finished this frame for predominant use I'll be refining the "Street Spec" before heading returned to D1 craziness another time and the 86 will return to carrier.
Plans for the later a part of this year include a few custom chassis conversions for the DRB.
Drift Package Weight Shift Drift Master Tsunami Spec R
Chassis:
Yokomo Drift Package Drift Master Chassis Kit
Yokomo Blue Alloy Aluminum Servo Mount
Yokomo SS Hex Screw set
Yokomo Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles
Yokomo Black Ball joints
Team Bomber Carbon Bumper Support
Drift Master Black Carbon Lower Deck Modified for Slide rack
DRB Black Carbon Upper Deck for Front
Custom RE-XTREME Rear Upper Deck & Battery Holder
DRB Black Carbon Modified Mono Shock Tower
Custom 桃柵さん Black Carbon Bulkhead Brace Set
Active Slide Rack Set
Overdose Blue Servo Saver Arm
Yokomo Brake Disk Wheel Hub
MST 5mm Wheel Lock nuts.
Eagle Racing Velcro Body Mount
Drive Train:
Yokomo Blue Alloy SD Front One Way Axle
Yokomo Stock Plastic Ball Differential (loose setting)
18T Yokomo Pinion86T MST Spur Gear
Yeah Racing Universal Shaft (Rear)
Suspension:
Yokomo RWD Conversion Blue Alloy Front Suspension Y-arm.
WUN V2 Blue Alloy Front Upper Arm
Team Suzuki Alloy Rear Lower Suspension Arm for Drift Package
Yeah Racing Blue Alloy Rear Hub Carrier 0 Degrees Toe in
Overdose Blue Alloy Suspension Mount Set
Front : 0 Degrees (FF)
Overdose Blue Alloy Suspension Mount Set for Drift Package
Rear : 0 Degrees (ADJUSTABLE)
Yokomo Blue Alloy Chassis adjustment spacers
FF Spacer - 1mm
FR Spacer - 1mm
RF Spacer - 3mm
Rear Shock
Yokomo BD7 Black Alloy Shock SSS Size
Team Associated Long Shock Shaft
Front Monoshock
Yokomo BD7 Alloy Shock SSS Size
Piston
Front: Yokomo 3 hole
Rear :Yokomo 3 hole
Yokomo Shock Oil
Front: 200
Rear : 200
Spring Set
Front: RC926 Soft
Rear: 30mm Tamiya Soft Spring + RC926 15mm Medium Soft and Separator
Alignment Setting:
Toe
Front : Zero degree Toe Out
Rear : 0 degrees Toe in
Slight toe in on full lock
Castor
Front : 13 degrees
Camber
Front : 7 degrees
Rear : 0 degrees
Ride Height
Front : 4mm
Rear : 5mm
Power
Keyence Brushless Set
Keyence Tachyon Airia ESC (Silver Carbon)
Keyence Luxon KG 21.5T Motor (Silver case)
Keyence Chevalier Dash Capacitor
Keyence TAO Aggressive Drive Controller (SR Shine Red)
Brake Power 24%
Neutral Brake Power 14%
Forward Speed 100%
Reverse Speed 50%
Drive Frequency 2KHz
Brake Frquency 2KHz
Neutral Brake Frequency 2KHz
Turbo + Full Advance
Boost Timing Full Advance
Direct Euro Battery ConnectorsKawada Motor Connectors
Keyence Black Wire
Control
Sanwa MT-4S 40th 2.4Ghz 4ch Proportional Radio Control System
Sanwa RX-472 Receiver
Sanwa SG-01D Gyro
Sanwa SRG-BLX Steering Servo
Charger and Battery
Hitec X4 Multi Charger
RE-Xtreme Power LiPo - 2/3 size Turnigy 4200mAh 60C LiPo Batteries x2
Tyre : GCRC
Front: RC-ART RT-02SH for carpet. Round profile 26mm
Rear: MST CS-R Medium Red or GA26.
Tyre: Millenium
Front: MST FR-F Gold round profile 26mm
Rear: MST CS-R Green
Body : Toyota 86
Front Track: 205mm
Front Wheel: +9
Rear Width: 215mm
Front Wheel: +14
Body : FD3s
Front Track: 200mm
Front Wheel: +9
Rear Width: 200mm
Front Wheel: +12
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